Kawakubo opened a buyer's shop

Kawakubo opened a buyer's shop

If you ask which of the most famous fashion buyer's stores in the world is, the Japanese designer Dani Street (Denver Street Market, hereinafter referred to as DSM) will definitely be on the list.

In an experimental, forward-thinking atmosphere, DSM, in addition to Kawakubo's own brand, Comme des Garcons, is transformed from a Georgian-style office building into a six-story building with hundreds of brands such as Dior, Celine, Sacai, and Rick Owens. Many of these single products are exclusive global sales. The best-known is that it is always full of fresh in-store arrangements - DSM insists on "changing its face every six months" and redesigning stores from the inside out.

The DSM, which was recently remodeled, has a new face, and the responsible window is Molly Goddard, a fashion designer who had just graduated from the Central Design University of St. Martin in London.

Buying stores are often seen as a retail platform for young designers. The 26-year-old London designer Molly Goddard won the NewGen Designer Award at the British Fashion Association in 2014. Her real intimate contact with the market is through DSM – Molly Goddard's Spring/Summer 2015 and Fall/Winter collections are sold at this buyer’s shop. DSM even handed her the shop window to her to show her latest collection.

The new window looks like a studio where the owner left soon, with plasters, brushes, canvases on the wall, paint scattered on the ground, and stacking drawings. . . In an interview with the interface, she said that her design window was based on the release of the label of the same name during London Fashion Week in February this year.

As a girl who grew up in West London, Molly Goddard used to visit DSM from time to time, and found inspiration every time. Before the actual implementation of their own designs must be approved by the DSM, "Although the window of the chaos and the store layout in stark contrast, but fortunately DSM are allowed." Goddard told the interface news reporter.

This is in fact the original intention of the founder of the buyer. DSM's inspiration comes from the declining Kensington market. This bohemian market before the closure of the 1990s was a place where British subcultures collided. Kawakubo once explained: "I hope to create a creative bazaar where artists from all fields coexist in the same space."

If you have also been to DSM, you will find that each brand's space is set up as an installation art exhibit. Even big brands such as Dior and Celine are struggling to separate their respective small spaces and distinguish themselves from the extravagant atmosphere they create in department stores and specialty stores.

Similar to physical retail stores, DSM has twice a year a new store design called “Tachiagari” (Japanese, meaning “Start”). However, the costs are much higher: the brands and designers on display in the buyers' shop are invited from all over the world to re-arrange their own areas. During this period, the stores are closed.

The time left for them in previous years was 72 hours. In these three days, the neighboring brands Alexander McQueen and Victoria Beckham on the same street are busy with customers every day to make money. Adrian Joffe, a DSM partner and Kawakubo's husband Adrian Joffe, told the Financial Times that the loss for the three days may be around 100,000 pounds (about 959,900 yuan). However, he believes: "It's important to make money to survive, but creativity and new things are the most valued here."

DSM insiders revealed that the time of the recent “change” was only 2 days. In addition to Molly Goddard's window show, the buyers shop also opened up a T-shirt exclusive area, the new number of brands entering the DSM up to more than 20. Dressing rooms that are decorated in various shapes are still a major feature of DSM, and the ornaments in every corner of the store are likely to come from street shops, used antique shops, and even designer private homes. At first glance, it looks like an art gallery, not a simple fashion integration shop.

DSM's sacrifice of the two-day turnover to win the exchange can not only be a surprise to the customer when he enters the store, but it is also a top priority for him to take a new generation of experience in the millennial generation. In recent years, the rise of the buyers store Story and Bene Rial are also trying to seize this wave of new customers. Bene Rial founder and fashion consultant Caryn Neary discovered that “they (Millennium generation) are more concerned about the consumer experience than the brand”.

DSM, which celebrated its tenth anniversary last year, is equipped with specialized shopping guides that speak the world's major languages. According to insiders, there are currently two shop assistants in charge of the growing number of Chinese buyers. Apart from greeting the door, they will not disturb the customers' loitering. When there are doubts, they are prepared to be questioned as if they were out of thin air.

What is more in line with young people's mind is that DSM even released the smart watch Apple Watch synchronously with the Apple online store. The loyal customers of the buyer’s shop received a notification e-mail two weeks before Apple’s arrival. The queuing situation on the day of the first day attracted the attention of nearby fashion brand clerk.

Perhaps new designers and new store designs have failed to satisfy the appetite of the masses. DSM announced last year that it will relocate to Haymarket, south of Piccadilly Plaza in London. The area of ​​the new store will be six times the area of ​​the existing stores. This area is connected to Regent Street in the north and is one of the most prosperous shopping areas in London. According to sources, any information related to it is currently the top secret, and the new store may be officially opened in March 2016.

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