Linen fabric spinning, weaving process knowledge Daquan!

First, basic knowledge of flax


1, fiber profile:

Bast fiber, linen process length is generally 55cm, pectin content, poor spinnability. The rate of recovery is 12%. In natural fibers, like cotton, wetness is stronger than dry strength.


2, the characteristics of linen textiles:

2.1 cool feeling: linen is a hot benign conductor, wearing linen underwear can reduce body surface temperature 4 °C; moisture absorption and desorption; good air permeability; not easy to skin;

2.2 Cleanliness: The more the glue is washed off, the first-class hotel waiter clothing is linen;

2.3 strong and durable: strength is 1.6 times that of cotton;

2.4 crisp: Linen clothing prominent lines, wearing a solemn, elegant.

3, the use of linen textiles

3.1 Linen apparel fabrics 3.2 Linen knitwear products 3.3 Artex fabrics (embroidered fabrics) 3.4 Linen fabrics 3.5 Linen hoses 3.6 Linen fabrics 3.7 Other products (sanitary fabrics, sewing threads, etc.).

Second, linen spinning equipment and processes


1. Linen Spinning Category: Pure Linen Spinning and Linen Blend Spinning

1.1 linen blended spinning and cotton spinning equipment and process

Short hemp → flower cleaning → carding

Parallel (3~4) → Roving → Spun Yarn → Winding → Storage

Raw cotton → clear flowers → carding

1.2 Pure Linen Spinning Equipment and Process

1.2.1 Beating into hemp → Humidification → Manual splitting → Bundling → Combing → Combing with growth (combing into short hemp)

1.2.2 wet spinning process:

Long linen spinning: combing and growing hemp → combing into hemp and moisturizing regimen → blending with hemp → hand forming into strips → grouping → long-stapled joints → 1 to 4 lanes of strips → long-staple rovings → rovings (sodium chlorite, Hydrogen peroxide) → Wet spun yarn → Drying → Spun yarn separation → Winding → Storage;

Short hemp spinning: combing into short hemp→matting→mixing and humidifying→combing→needle combing (3~4)→combing→needle combing→short rovings→rolling→wet spinning→drying→spinning Color separation → winding → storage

1.2.3 Equipment: Scooping process (drawing machine), drawing frame, roving frame, scouring pot, spinning frame, winder

Third, linen weaving equipment and processes

3.1 Fabric classification: pure hemp fabric, cross-fabric, blended fabric;

3.2 Weaving process: Winding - warping - sizing - wear

3.3 The equipment used: pure linen fabric weaving equipment for rapier and shuttle loom (tex range in 4.5s ~ 21s);

3.4 Fabric Weaving: In most cases, the warp yarns are pure cotton or other yarns, and the weft yarns are linen yarns;

3.5 Weaving of blended fabrics: Can be done on jets (21 yarns or more and less than 30% hemp content);

3.6 sizing of pure flax varieties: low-branch and low-density varieties are not sized.

Fourth, the main fabric defects of linen fabric

The main defects: cross file, thin, loose repair, hop, hole, broken edge weft, broken, broken weft, thin, oil

Fifth, the variety of conventional linen

Composition Specifications Width

Quotation

(yuan/meter)

55% hemp 45% stick 30*14 47*58 63 17.3 67 18.4 55% hemp 45% stick 40*14 59*52 63 16.3 67 17.3 55% hemp 45% cotton 21*14 54*52 63 15.2 67 16.3 55% Hemp 45% Cotton 32*17 56*52 63 15.2 67 16.3 Pure Linen L9*L9 41*42 63 22.6 Pure Linen L14*L14 50*54 63 21.5 Pure Linen L17*L17 52*53 63 21.7 Pure Linen L17*L21 52 *53 63 22 pure linen L21*L21 52*53 63 22.6 pure ramie bamboo R6*R6 30*31 62 13.3 pure ramie bamboo R6*R6 30*31 70 15 pure ramie bamboo R6*R6 30*31 72 15.3 Pure ramie bamboo R8*R8 42*38 63 12.6 Pure ramie R21*R21 52*58 63 14.3 Pure ramie R21*R21 60*60 63 15.3

Pure nettle

(half bleaching)

R60*R60 83*68 58 25.2 Cotton ramie intertwined C21*R21 52*58 63 11.6

Sixth, other technical indicators of linen


6.1 Elongation of dyed cloth

The elongation of linen varies according to the type and equipment, and there is a large difference in elongation. The elongation of large varieties can reach 11 to 12% and the small ones have 3 to 5%. The elongation of the small rapier is greater than the elongation of the big rapier by about 3 points.


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