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how to do a high round back adjustment
Are you struggling with garments slipping off your shoulders or necklines riding up on your handmade tops and dresses? Perhaps you've even attempted a forward shoulder adjustment but found it didn't solve the problem. If these issues sound familiar, a high round back adjustment might be just what you need.
This adjustment is particularly beneficial for those with a naturally rounded upper back. When your upper back curves outward, it can create extra space in the back of your garments that needs to be accommodated by adding length. Today, I'm going to guide you through this straightforward process that won't take long to master.
To begin, let's determine how much length to add to your pattern. There are a few methods you can use:
1. Create a muslin and slash the back bodice piece approximately ½ inch below the neckline, keeping small fabric hinges on both sides. Pull the fabric above the slash up to where a necklace would sit on your neck. The gap left between the garment and your body represents the length you need to add.
2. Measure the distance from the necklace point on your neck down to your back waist while seated. Then measure from the neck seam line on the back bodice piece to the waist point. The difference between these two measurements indicates the length you need to add.
3. For those who prefer trial and error, starting with a 5/8 inch adjustment is recommended. If more than 5/8 inch is needed, the adjustment must be split into two parts.
Once you know the required length, prepare your pattern accordingly:
- If you're working with a single back bodice piece cut on the fold, no preparation is necessary, but remember to add seam allowance later.
- For patterns with a center back seam, remove the seam allowance first, then reintroduce it at the end.
- With patterns featuring a back placket, like the Gelato Blouse, fold the pattern along the fold line before beginning.
Now, let's dive into the steps:
**Step 1:** Draw a horizontal line across the pattern piece at the neck seam line. Since the seam allowance is ½ inch, draw the line ½ inch below the neck edge.
**Step 2:** Cut along the drawn line, starting from the center and stopping just short of the armhole. Leave a small hinge to keep the pattern connected.
**Step 3:** Insert paper beneath the pattern (folding the paper beforehand can simplify the process). Gently lift the top part upward, spreading the pieces according to your adjustment measurement (up to 5/8 inch). Secure the pattern with tape. If your adjustment is 5/8 inch or less, move directly to Step 8.
**Step 4:** For adjustments exceeding 5/8 inch, extend the adjustment further down by drawing another horizontal line 6 inches below the neck seam line.
**Step 5:** Repeat the slashing and spreading process from Step 2, ensuring the pieces are spread evenly.
**Step 6:** Trim any excess paper and reintroduce seam allowances if necessary. Your pattern is now adjusted.
For patterns with a back placket, additional steps are required:
**Step 7:** Fold the placket back and trim the neck seam to align properly. Make sure the placket matches the neck seam when folded.
**Step 8:** Unfold the placket and ensure the edge aligns smoothly. If needed, shorten the placket by cutting from the edge to the fold line and overlapping the pieces until the fold is smooth.
Congratulations! You’ve completed the high round back adjustment. This skill will enhance your ability to achieve a perfect fit in your sewing projects. Keep practicing, and soon you'll tackle adjustments with confidence!